We just got
back from El Paso yesterday, and even though a weekend in Texas sounds much
less dramatic than three weeks in Guatemala and Mexico, being there for a short
time did a lot to change my understanding of the border. The experiences I've
had in the Tucson border region have been wide-ranging and valuable, but having
them doesn't mean I automatically understand the border as a whole, especially
in places like El Paso that are so dramatically different.
The
difference that struck me immediately was the close proximity of El Paso to
Ciudad Juarez. I had seen the two cities on maps and heard stories of past
Border Studies students crossing between them daily, but knowing those things
didn't prepare me for actually seeing the border. From the view in the Franklin
Mountains (which is the only way Border Studies students can see Juarez these
days), the two metropolises appear to be colliding as they both expand along
the Rio Grande river and into the desert. The border wall is constantly visible
along the highway, along with the Border Patrol, who showed up in under five
minutes when our group stopped to have a discussion by the Anapra section of
the fence. Even the desert itself (which around El Paso is the Chihuahuan, not
the Sonoran), with its lack of saguaros and a Saturday-afternoon dust storm,
seemed more foreign to me than I had expected.
In Tucson, “the
border” often remains an abstract concept. In El Paso, there is no way to think
of it as something vague and distant. Just as I had on the travel seminar, I
often had the feeling that I was seeing firsthand many of the issues I'd been
studying all semester. There was economic inequality in the contrast between
what we could see of Juarez and the suburbs and mansions of El Paso, and we saw
the arbitrary nature of borders in the fact that a citizen of either US or
Mexico could be arrested for stepping over a line in the middle of a public
park. Over and over again, people we met in El Paso reminded us that while we
were visiting one of the safest cities in the United States, Ciudad Juarez was
experiencing an average of eight murders per day – a fact that made questions
of privilege and injustice immediately apparent.
I'm grateful for the space I
have as a Border Studies student to learn about these issues and examine my own
place in the systems that created them. However, I'm also grateful that I got
to spend time in El Paso, where the border is a constant physical presence.
Many of the people we met there were working in direct, pragmatic ways against
the way these systems affect their communities, whether they were providing
lodging for migrants, establishing a community center that fights post-NAFTA
unemployment, or working to make low-cost childbirth available to mothers from
both sides of the border. I often felt uncomfortable and overwhelmed by
learning about the border in El Paso, but the trip also provided a reminder not
to get lost in thinking about everything on such a large scale that I lose
sight of the need and value of smaller-scale, more concrete work.
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